Matt McGraw- The Other Holston River
This post walks you through Matt's experience in the Kumbabrow State Forest of West Virginia, as he fishes Mill Creek.
Fly anglers in the Eastern United States associate the South Holston River, the Tennessee tailwater, with scheduled and predictable alternating periods of high and low flows, kype-jawed brown trout, dense fogs of sulphurs, and slinging bugs from the comfort of a drift boat. Indeed, the South Holston River may be the most popular tailwater trout fishery in the East. There is, however, another Holston of which anglers should be aware. The South Fork of the Holston, located near Marion, Virginia, is a prime fishing destination and more accessible to the average angler than the "Soho."
A tributary to its more famous cousin, The South Fork is in Southwestern Virginia with its headwaters in Smyth County, near the town of Sugar Grove, the Appalachian Trail, Interstate 81, and in the shadow of Mount Rogers. Originating from multiple cold-water springs, the water temperature in the headwaters remains stable all around and is cooler in mid-summer than you may expect. The upper section of the river combines cold, clean headwaters with a variety of abundant hatches, and two special-regulation sections. The result is an exceptional trout fishery that can be easily waded, is tantalizingly challenging, and unbelievably rewarding. Despite the dam, the upper section looks, feels, and fishes like a classic freestone stream. The trout may be more discerning, but the wading, hatches, and fly selection are reminiscent of Pennsylvania freestone creeks.
Do not be fooled by the size of the stream into thinking there are only small fish. In fact, the current Virginia state record brown trout came out of the South Fork of the Holston and was a heavyweight at 14 pounds and twelve ounces. Undercut banks below the dam give these bruisers a place to hide. It seems that every time I fish it, one of these fish suddenly executes an expert smash and grab, breaks my tippet, and then disappears in a fading swirl. Recalling these fly thieves on the drive home, I find myself wondering if it was a dream or a memory, a strike, or a mugging?
There are four sections of the South Fork which one should consider when planning a trip, two special regulation sections and two stocked "put and take" sections. The Buller Fish Cultural Station offers a convenient point of reference. If you park at the Buller Station, you have convenient access to both special regulation sections. Just upstream of the Buller Station you will find a small dam. The first section begins five hundred feet upstream of the dam, just beyond the pond, and extends four miles upstream into the gorge to the Jefferson National Forest Boundary. This is the largest of the four sections and the most remote. Rainbows, browns, and the occasional brookie are to be found here where anglers are limited to single- hooks and artificial flies. All fish kept must be at least sixteen inches in length. While anglers are permitted to keep two per day, the sheer beauty, remoteness, and quality of the trout should inspire anglers to release all caught fish.
The second special regulation section, and my personal favorite, is single-hook, artificial fly, catch and release only. It extends from the dam to the Virginia Wildlife Resources boundary located downstream of the Buller Station. This section has it all- pocket water for dry flies, deep runs for nymphs, and undercuts for streamers. On multiple occasions I have driven here with the intention of exploring further upstream, only to fish this stretch for two days. The variety of water types and amount of food in the water make this a productive stretch, but these trout have lived in catch and release water for a long time. They are astute and discriminating on the drift; immediate and explosive on the take; wily and powerful on the fight. These fish know how to use the environment to their advantage, so you had better be on your game.
The final two fishing areas are both stocked "put and take" sections. Located at Thomas Bridge and St. Clair Bottom, these are managed by Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources as Class "A" trout water, meaning they receive eight stockings during the stocking season. It is also worth noting that the Buller Fish Cultural Station diverts water from the South Fork of the Holston for the fish hatchery. They not only raise rainbow, brown, and brook trout, but also walleye, black crappie, and muskellunge, making it one of the few hatcheries in the region to raise muskies. Muskies are raised until they are about a foot in length and then shared with about twenty other fisheries in the Commonwealth.
Travel to the South Fork of the Holston is quite easy. To fish the special regulation sections, set your GPS for the Buller Fish Hatchery. There is public parking on site and only a short walk to the water. I-81 is the nearest interstate, and the nearest town of Marion is within a 45-minute drive of Bristol, TN. Within two hours are Johnson City, TN, Roanoke, VA, or Asheville, NC.
Matt McGraw Bio:
Matt McGraw is a proud Appalachian who lives in the scenic Alleghany Highlands of Virginia. He is a marginal but enthusiastic fly angler, a sub-par fly tyer, and a dangerous fly caster. His favorite streams include the Jackson River, the South Fork of the Holston River, and the New River. His preferred quarries are trout and smallmouth bass, but he will target with a fly rod anything that both swims and eats. As a tyer, Matt likes old-school trout flies and easy-to-tie bass flies. Matt's alter-ego is that of a mild-mannered college administrator at Mountain Gateway Community College.
Contact Information:
Email: mcgrawms@gmail.com
Instagram: @matthewmcgraw1